Japan 2025

After the long flight and a rest at the hotel, a walk felt enjoyable. I wandered through Shinjuku and Ikebukuro before drifting south through Yoyogi and along the quieter edges of Harajuku.  South of Tekshita-dori, a food truck, Slice of Life, offered a taste of home; Texas-style brisket burnt ends and easy conversation with fellow travelers from Singapore and California. It was a simple outdoor meal, familiar and grounding, and an unhurried way to begin the trip.

Planning to head into southeast Tokyo to revisit an old haunt, the Irish pub Scael Eile, I noticed that Koami Shrine was holding its annual Doburoku Festival. I stopped to sample their home-brewed rice wine and offered a quiet prayer for a good harvest, both there and back home, before continuing on to a new whisky bar, Tsurukame. Arriving early meant a quiet room and time to talk with the staff while tasting whiskies rarely found outside Japan.

Later, I walked on to the Irish bar and greeted the owner after a long absence. I settled in at the counter and spent the evening talking with a group of salarymen who kindly insisted on covering my tab. We talked for hours, and by the end of the night, familiar stories bridged the gap of time, turning the visit into something comfortably familiar once again.

I headed back toward the hotel, but jet lag had fully set in, and sleep wasn’t coming. Instead, I took it as an opportunity to explore a little more. I found a small 24-hour bar near Golden Gai and settled in at Terakoya. The menu was unusual, featuring game meats like rat and bear. I opted for the bear. The flavor itself was good, though the preparation, moving from frozen to microwave to grill, left it drier than expected. It’s something I’d be curious to try again prepared differently. After the late night turned into early morning, I finally returned to the hotel to rest.

After a good night’s sleep, I headed to Meguro to see if I could get a table at Meat Yazawa. Unfortunately, the wait was longer than I was willing to tolerate. Queuing has never been one of my strengths. Instead, I walked along the Meguro River, taking in the view and making dinner plans with friends from back home. I eventually settled on a light lunch at a nearby food court, enjoying the atmosphere and thinking of フードコートで、また明日 (See You Tomorrow at the Food Court), an anime I had recently watched about the routine of daily lunches in a food court.

Saya and Matt, my Japanese language sensei/sempai from back home met me for dinner at their local spot, Sarina’s, where we shared a few drinks and easy conversation with friends who were studying English. Afterwards, we stopped by Shizuku (しずく), a neighborhood nihonshu bar. Entering through its small, almost hobbit-like door, we found a warm and welcoming space filled with sake and easy camaraderie.

Another jet-lagged night eventually led me into Golden Gai proper for a 3 a.m. meal at 3rd Room, a small bar on the fourth floor at the edge of the main alleys. I settled in for a late dinner and unhurried conversation with a few fellow night owls before turning in.

I spent the afternoon in Ginza, sampling rare wines at Sake no Ana and stopping for a quick bite. Later, with December in full swing and winter illuminations lighting the streets, I walked through Shinjuku. Remembering that it was Sunday and that the penultimate race of the 2025 Formula 1 season in Qatar was about to start, I made a reservation at the Kabukicho Hub, a British pub chain in Japan. After the football match ended, the pub emptied out, leaving me space to watch the race as it carried on into the late hours of Monday morning.

After a leisurely walk through Shibuya and Harajuku, I stopped for lunch at a small izakaya called Beetle, tucked just off the busier stretch of Takeshita-dori. For dinner, I returned to the Hub for a familiar and convenient meal. Before that, I spent some time at Zoetrope, a well-known whisky bar in Shinjuku. The Japanese whisky selection was the largest I have encountered, and the owner, a devoted film enthusiast, was happy to talk at length about anime, movies, and whisky. His recommendations, both on screen and in the glass, were excellent. Zoetrope has long been regarded as a must-visit in Shinjuku, and the reputation is well earned.

And then it was back to the familiar embrace of Osaka. My first domestic flight within Japan, from Haneda to Itami, was smooth and uneventful, and the bus ride from Itami into Umeda was equally straightforward. I chose to stay in Umeda because several of my favorite bars in the world are concentrated there, close enough to feel like part of the neighborhood rather than destinations.

From the moment I arrived, I was met with surprised recognition from Nami and the rest of the crew at Izakaya 1969, a small, well-worn bar I have returned to over the years. I took my usual seat at the whisky counter and settled into a familiar daily rhythm, one that felt less like visiting and more like coming home. That sense of homecoming became a thread running through the trip.

Needless to say, I closed the bar that night and returned early the following day. This pattern repeated throughout the week, so there is no need to dwell on the routine. Still, it is worth saying that the kushikatsu is always excellent, the hospitality consistently warm, and the distinct themes of each bar both thoughtful and fun.

Another day was spent sampling whisky, starting with lunch at Whisky Dining WWW.W, a venue focused on showcasing Suntory whiskies, and ending back at 1969 with a flight of Shiki-Tamba. The evening unfolded through easy conversation with other enthusiasts and regulars. It was the kind of everyday rhythm I enjoy most.

I visited the G-Lion Antique Car Museum, spending time among its collection of well-preserved vintage cars. A classic Corvette stood out in particular, one I knew a few friends back home would appreciate seeing.

For the first time, I visited Nara Park and encountered the resident deer, moving freely through the grounds with an ease that felt entirely natural. I spent some quiet time sitting by Sarusawa Pond, reflecting on the trip and on Japan itself. It was a peaceful interlude, grounded in nature and stillness, and a welcome pause in the rhythm of travel.