A Trip to Jolly Old England 2026
This trip across England took on a different character than our previous travels, shifting between the familiar pulse of London and the historic stillness of the West Country. Traveling with Jennifer and her brother, the trip balanced days spent walking through crowded city streets, visiting long-standing architectural landmarks, and catching up with friends across miles of separation. Late summer lingered longer than expected, casting a warm, steady light over both the capital and the Georgian stone of Bath.
While England didn't swing quite like a pendulum, nor did I see rosy red cheeks of little children, I did indeed visit Westminster Abbey, the Tower of Big Ben and saw some of the local constabulary, but sans bicycles...I think we saw what modern London has to offer.
Rather than chasing an exhaustive itinerary, the pace found its own natural cadence: local pubs, quiet museum galleries, subterranean military history, and an immersion into English football culture. It was an unhurried exploration that left room for spontaneous diversions, chance reunions, and long-overdue conversations.
Arrival in London: From Heathrow to Holborn
After an overnight flight, we touched down at Heathrow and boarded the Heathrow Express straight into Paddington. From there, we walked the short distance over to Lancaster Gate to catch the Central line, marking our first descent into the Underground. Surfacing at Holborn, we checked into The Hotel early, drew the blinds, and caught a much-needed nap to reset our internal clocks.
The British Museum & The Great Court
Following a solid night’s rest and breakfast, we walked along Great Russell Street to queue up just ahead of opening. The scale of The British Museum is striking; stepping through the classical facade brings you directly beneath the tessellated glass roof of the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. At its center stands the famous Round Reading Room, once frequented by Karl Marx and Virginia Woolf. We spent hours navigating the galleries, tracing human history through relics from around the world, from the Rosetta Stone to the Parthenon Sculptures.
Late Summer Heat & A Japanese Interlude
Unprepared for London’s persistent late-summer warmth, our first errand the following day was a stop at UNIQLO to pick up lightweight clothing. From there, we walked over to the Japan Centre Flagship Store off Leicester Square to browse the shelves of regional pantry staples, snacks, and tableware, an enjoyable touch of familiar culture abroad.
Chinatown, Mr Fogg’s, and Trafalgar Square
We meandered through the decorative gate on Gerrard Street into Chinatown before ducking into Mr Fogg's Tavern for a midday catch-up with my brother-in-law over a few pints. Suitably refreshed, we continued down to Trafalgar Square to spend the afternoon inside The National Gallery, taking in centuries of Western European art, lingering in particular over Vermeer's quiet mastery of light in A Young Woman Standing at a Virginal.
An Evening in Stratford with Jules
Hopping back on the Underground, we rode the Central line east out to Stratford. We met my longtime friend Jules at Westfield, settling in at The Real Greek for an evening of shared mezze, souvlaki skewers, and effortless conversation, picking right back up where we had left off.
Matchday at The Den: Millwall vs. Bolton
Saturday was dedicated to football. We secured tickets in the Number 11 Hospitality lounge at Millwall Football Club to watch the Lions take on Bolton Wanderers at The Den. The atmosphere was electric from kickoff. Hearing the home crowd sing, chant, and back the squad with relentless volume is an experience unmatched anywhere else. Millwall put on a commanding performance, cruising to a definitive 4-nil victory. After picking up a handful of souvenirs at the club shop, it’s safe to say we found ourselves a British football team to support.
A Sunday Excursion to Ipswich
On Sunday, I split off from Jennifer and her brother to spend the day with Jules in Suffolk. We started with morning service at All Saints Church Ipswich, followed by a proper Sunday roast with all the trimmings at the Mermaid. Afterward, we walked over to a local pub just in time to watch the Formula 1 Grand Prix.
Wandering the Waterfront & Portman Road
Following the race, Jules and I took a walking tour through central Ipswich, passing the shops, the historic Town Hall, and the modern portal installation before ending up along the rejuvenated Ipswich Waterfront. On the way to the station, we stopped by Portman Road to see the Ipswich Town pitch before she dropped me off for the train back to London.
Below Ground at the Churchill War Rooms
Monday brought our timed entry to the Churchill War Rooms, the subterranean nerve center beneath the Treasury building in Whitehall. Stepping into the Cabinet War Room and the Map Room, preserved virtually untouched since the lights were switched off in August 1945, gives a quiet, tangible sense of the operational pressure Churchill and his war cabinet carried through the Blitz.
Westminster, Big Ben, and an Afternoon Split
Surfacing back into the Whitehall sun, we took in Big Ben and the Elizabeth Tower standing beside Westminster Abbey. We divided up for the afternoon: Jennifer and her brother went inside the Abbey before walking toward Buckingham Palace.
Language Practice & Izakaya Fare at Chisou
While they explored royal history, I found a quiet Japanese restaurant nearby for lunch before hoofing it over to Buckingham to see the Victoria Memorial. Later that evening, after regrouping outside Buckingham Palace, Jennifer and I headed off to Chisou Sushi and Izakaya. The meal was exceptional, and it provided a welcome opportunity to practice conversational Japanese with the staff and expats working and dining there.
The Tower of London to Borough Market
Tuesday morning started at Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and Fortress, the Tower of London. Beyond the White Tower built by William the Conqueror (aka William the Bastard) in 1078, we viewed the Crown Jewels in the Waterloo Block, including the Imperial State Crown and the Sovereign’s Sceptre. Crossing south over Tower Bridge for lunch, we had a quick bite before touring Borough Market beneath the Victorian railway arches. Later that evening, we walked over to BLOODSPORTS to watch the Millwall game on screen, continuing our newfound allegiance before retiring to the hotel.
Anatomy & Oddities at the Hunterian Museum
Wednesday began with dropping our laundry off for full service. We walked down through Lincoln's Inn Fields and had brunch at Pear Tree Cafe before heading into the Hunterian Museum at the Royal College of Surgeons. The gallery houses thousands of anatomical and pathological specimens amassed by 18th-century surgeon John Hunter, including comparative animal skeletons and historical surgical instruments.
Coincidences along Fleet Street: The Punch Tavern
Leaving Lincoln’s Inn, we followed the Thames path east, viewing the Totally Thames art installations, before heading up toward Fleet Street. We stopped into the Punch Tavern, a storied Victorian gin palace once frequented by the satirists and illustrators of Punch magazine. While sampling their expansive gin selection, the radically improbable happened: a couple from our supper club back home walked straight in the front door. Meeting friends from home completely by chance in a historic London pub was easily one of the trip's best moments.
Dinner at Dishoom Covent Garden
After retrieving our clean laundry, we ended Wednesday night with dinner at Dishoom Covent Garden. Modeled on the old Irani cafés of Bombay, the room was buzzing as we dined, a memorable taste of London's vibrant Indian culinary landscape.
Westward Bound: The Great Western Railway to Bath
Thursday morning brought us back to Brunel’s iron arches at Paddington station. After a quick lunch on the concourse, we boarded the Great Western Railway bound for Bath Spa. We checked into our hotel and walked straight into the Georgian streets, settling in at The Raven for real ale, cider, and their traditional hot meat pies.
Standing Stones: Stonehenge & Avebury
Friday was our guided tour through Wiltshire with a local driver who grew up within a mile of our hotel in Bath. Our first stop was the Stonehenge Visitor Centre, where he shared practical tips for catching the shuttles and navigating the sarsen circle, as well as exploring the reconstructed Neolithic thatch-roof huts. From there, we drove north to Avebury, home to the largest megalithic stone circle in the world, which encircles the modern village.
Village Pubs & The Wiltshire Countryside
We stopped for a quiet lunch at the Red Lion, famous for being completely enclosed by the Avebury stone circle, with a deep glass-covered well right inside the dining room. Afterward, our driver guided us through the honey-toned stone cottages of Castle Combe and the preserved medieval streets of Lacock before returning to Bath for dinner and rest.
The Grand Regency Promenade: Jane Austen Festival
Saturday was the centerpiece of our stay in Somerset. Thousands gathered across Bath dressed in tailored Regency attire for the Grand Regency Promenade, celebrating the life and novels of Jane Austen against the backdrop of the city's Georgian terraces. Later that evening, we tucked into The Hideout, an intimate whisky bar where we sampled rare and independent bottlings seldom seen back home, before capping the night with doner from a street vendor near the river.
The Coeur De Lion & Roman Thermal Springs
Sunday began with a quiet drink at Coeur De Lion, tucked down Northumberland Passage and recognized as Bath’s smallest pub. We then joined our guided tour of The Roman Baths. Walking alongside the steaming Great Bath, fed by natural thermal springs discharging 46°C mineral water daily, we explored the temple pediment of Sulis Minerva and the underground Roman plumbing before heading to the Cork to watch Formula 1 and then circling back to The Raven for another round of savory pies.
Pulteney Bridge
Our final morning in Bath was spent revisiting favorite corners, stopping for freshly baked Portuguese pastéis de nata, and walking over Pulteney Bridge. Completed in 1774 to a neoclassical design by Robert Adam, it is one of only four bridges in the world lined with active shops along both sides. Crossing the roadway, you would never know you are passing over water.
The Return Journey
Leaving Bath behind, we caught the train back into Paddington station for dinner, eventually continuing out to Heathrow Airport to stay the night before flying home. Looking back, what stays with me most is the cadence of British pub life, the comfort of hot savory pies, discovering a club to follow at The Den, and having uninterrupted time to reconnect with an old friend.
